Where to start?  My preference is the Limited Pennyplane (Most of my friends still call it a Novice Pennyplane, and so do I).  Get a plan of a successful plane, e.g. Banks Pennyplane or copy a model of a club member.  If you don't have a building board try a piece of plain ceiling tile.  Buy sharp dressmaker pins.  You need some good quality cardboard for templates.  I bought a sheet of picture matt material from Michaels, a local general handicraft store that also frames pictures.  Any light color is O.K.

The Wing:  Draw and cut out the wing outline template.  It will look something like this:

Dimension A is important.  The completed wing must not exceed 5.0 inch chord.  Let's assume that the LE and TE are 1/16 sq. (medium).  Lightly sanded assume .06 in. 
Make dimension A = 5.00 - .06 - .06 - .04 = 4.84 in.
The .04 is insurance against exceeding 5.00 in. finished chord.  The spar is to stop the d--- ribs falling over and stiffen the template.

Draw and cut out the wing rib template.  Mine look like this:

The two marks are the ends of the completed rib.  Make dimension B a hair more than dimension A

Ribs:  Get your rib material, probably 1/32 medium light sheet, and cut a piece length B (a hair more than A) off the end of the sheet.  Both ends of this cut must be clean cuts.  Use the template and a sharp razor blade (not a balsa knife) to slice off ribs that look like this:

Eyeball the 1/16 in.
Some ribs may be deeper than others.  Save these for the dihedral joint and center ribs.

Assembling the wing:  Put the usual wax paper etc., on the board and pin the wing template securely down on top of it.  Make sure that the board is flat.  Find some old medium soft 1/8 x 1/16 strip, cut off a zillion little blocks about 3/16 in. long.  Use these with pins to fasten the LE and TE against the template like this:
Do NOT push the pins through the structure OR against one side of it

Now insert the ribs in place.  If you made B a hair more than A they will be a nice snug fit.  The dihedral ribs should be canted inwards by about half the dihedral angle.  Use CA glue (not the thin stuff) or acetate glue, put a tiny drop on the end of a tiny screwdriver (or similar 1/32 across) and apply to each rib joint.  When dry remove all the pins.  When doing this stick a finger on the structure so you don't lift it with the pins.  Pry the wing structure off the template with a lot of patience and a few well chosen words.  With the wing finally free you will be appalled at its floppiness (technically called low stiffness).  Don't worry, compared with an EZB its like iron.

Weight recording: You should get in the habit of weighing parts as you go along.  You can jot them down on the wing template.  Do not rush out and buy expensive scales.  I made one that was described in Ron Williams excellent book (Alas, not available).  It looks like this:

When finished you must calibrate it.  A NEW penny weighs very close to 2.50 grams, from which the Pennyplane gets its name.  Use a very small piece of thread and sticky tape to hang the new penny on the wire hook.  Measure EXACTLY how much the wire deflects at the edge of the wood (C in.).  Remove the thread and tape and hang this on and measure the deflection (D in. not much).  Make a paper scale C - D in. long graduated linearly from 0 to 2.5 and paste it along the ply edge.  Tweak the wire if necessary to sit on zero.  The use of a linear scale (equal length divisions) is not quite accurate but will do for now until you can locate some accurate 0.50 gram weights.  Beware, some mail order weights are way off.  Like I said, weight the bare wing and later covered.  Do this for every part of the plane.  For future models this will indicate where you need to reduce weight or add material for more stiffness.

Stabilizer and Fin:  The method is similar to the wing construction.  Should be a breeze, except that you may be using thinner wood.

Make a couple of wing stands like this: 

You should cover your indoor duration plane with one of the modern plastic films.  These vary from .000060 in. down to around .000023 in.  One supplier quotes .000006 in (6 millionth's) which I find hard to believe.  Any of these will be OK, but you may find the thicker stuff easier to handle.  I buy mine from Wayne Trivin and Dick Obarski.  It comes in 15 ft. rolls.  Expect to waste quite a bit with your first attempts to use it.

Covering with this type of material is totally different from Jap tissue or condenser paper.  It has no inherent stiffness and is full of static.  If you let go of a piece it will collapse into a heap like Handi-Wrap only worse.  From a strength point of view its a bit like cellophane.  Once you have something covered, it is surprisingly resistant to puncture, but if you get a tear started then watch out.

Let's cover the Pennyplane wing and tail along with the pair of wing supports.  The covering sequence will be:

1.  The wing and tail must be flat with no dihedral.
2.  Construct a film mounting frame.
3.  Mount the film on the frame.
4.  Place the wing (or tail etc.) on the framed covering.
5.  Adjust the frame to roughly match the rib contour.
6.  Apply adhesive.
7.  Trim the covering thus cutting loose from the frame.
8.  Add dihedral and remove the resulting slack.

You may read articles which describe different covering sequences, but start with my way and you will be less likely to get into a mess.  But do experiment later.  Now for details.

Film Frame:  First construct a lightweight rectangular frame whose inside edge is at least 6.5 x 20 in.  However you fashion this frame, it must be flat to start with and have stiff spanwise sides.  With the film mounted on the frame, you must be able to introduce slack by pulling the sides together.  This will let the covering conform to the rib contour.  One way to achieve this is to have bendable end pieces made from aluminum wire or possibly strips cut from a soda can.  Another rather more complicated method which works great is my way.  This uses a screw adjustable gizmo that looks like this:

The hinges are essentially flat pieces of nylon.  Arrange them to make the moving side to spring outwards.  The top rails are hard balsa or spruce, etc.  The rail on the moving side can be pinned to the side B brackets to allow different frame widths for other models.  The idea of this contraption is that the film slack can be easily adjusted by turning the handle.  It is a bit cumbersome, but it works fine.

Mount The Film:  Use a slightly damp cloth to wipe off your work board.  When dry, lay out the roll of film down at one end and start to unroll it.  Don't worry if it starts to cling together, but be very careful NOT to start a tear.  With a brand new razor blade cut off a piece at least 1 inch larger all around than your frame.  Go slowly because the razor may snag in the film and tear it.  Roll up the remaining film and stow it.  Now pick up your cut pieces and wad it up (you heard) real tight.  Now spread it out again as flat as you can on your board.  It will have fine wrinkles and less static.  Fasten it down to the board with about ten little bits of tape and if possible tighten it a little at the same time.

Prepare Adhesive:  Use any type contact adhesive, including rubber cement, that can be thinned to a rather water consistency.  I use Elmers SAF-T Contact Cement.  This is water soluble.  Check building supplies and craft shops.  Carefully lay the frame, topside down, on the film.  Using a small brush, apply the thinned adhesive so that it wicks between the frame and the film.  Let it dry.  Press down on the frame to make sure it adheres to the film.  With a razor, cut loose the bits of tape and slowly lift the frame and support it right side up.

Covering:  Covering is done with all surfaces flat just as they came off the building board.  Do NOT sand cute airfoil type tapers into the LE or TE.  It will not improve the aerodynamics but it will weaken the members considerably.  Lets start with the sing.  Lay it upside down on the film.  Introduce slack by bending the frame wire ends, or by cranking the handle of my frame.  You need just enough clack so that both LE and TE sit down on the film thus:

Apply Adhesive:  With a tiny brush apply a little thinned adhesive to wick in on the LE and TE at the dihedral ribs.  Lit it dry.  Go around the entire outline and across the dihedral ribs with adhesive, using as little as possible and let it dry.  It may be necessary to push down on the structure to make it stick.  Now for the fun part, the film must be trimmed all around the outline to cut it loose from the frame.  There are two ways.  The first is to use a brand new razor blade from which all traces of stickiness have been removed to minimize the chance of snagging the film.  The second is to use a hot wire or cautery having first practiced on a spare area of film, being careful not to pause at any one spot since you may burn the balsa or melt a hole in the covering.  I have used both methods but I prefer the hot one.  Which ever you choose you may want to put something under the wing to support it as it drops.

Dihedral:  Fasten the center wing to the board on wax paper with pins angled across the LE and TE.  Slice almost thru the LE and TE at an angle just outboard of the dihedral rib so that the rib remains attached to the inner wing.  Lift the wing tip to crack the spars and prop up on a wing support (you did make the supports I hope).  Pin the base of the support to the board and raise the slider to give the correct dihedral plush washout if the plan calls for it.  Add pins if necessary to hold the dihedral joints together.  Repeat for the other tip and check that the span does not exceed 18.00 in.  Glue the joints with CA and remove the supports.

How to get rid of the slack film on the outer wing?  Easy.  With your fine brush paint a line of thinned glue just outboard (1/32 to 1/16 in.) of the dihedral rib.  Get a piece of 1/16 square and slice the end to look like a chisel.  Apply it to the bottom surface about mid-chord and slide it inboard to chase the slack to the rib until a downward tuck forms.  The glue should hold it there.  Repeat all across the rib until all the slack is gone.  If it does not hold wait until the contact glue has got tack and try again.

Cover the tail feathers in like fashion.

Make a jig to set up the wing attach tubes to the motor stick like this:

Motor Stick Discussion:  The prime function of the motor stick is to support the wing, tail boom, prop and rubber motor.  Unfortunately it does more than that.  Lets consider what it does when you wind up your motor:

1.  It Bends.  i.e. it arches up in the middle due to the tension between the motor hooks.  This induces some negative tail incidence and some down thrust.  Both of these are quite small for a fairly robust limited pennyplane.
2.  It Twists.  For the tail this imparts a left tip down tilt which tries to make the plane turn right (not desirable).  For the wind, it twists the left wing LE up and the TE down (wash in) which assists the normal trim for left turn.  It also imparts a small deflection in the yawing direction.
3.  Both the above will change as the motor unwinds, especially during the initial burst of power.

For early flying it is easier to trim if the above effects are minimized by keeping the motor stick stiff.  Bear in mind that a stick of lightweight wood (up to 7 lb./cu.ft.) and generous proportions will be much stiffer than a thinner stick of heavier stock.

Wing and Tail Mount Tubes:  These tubes are made by rolling jap tissue around a mandrel and impregnating with cement .  Start with the 1/16 in. inside diameter tubes which carry the wing pylon sticks.  Cut a strip of jap tissue about 3/4 in. wide and several inches long.  Use the shank end of an undamaged 1/16 drill as the mandrel.  Rub the shank end of a candle stub and remove any residue with your fingers.  Thin some Ambroid (or similar) about 50/50 with acetone.  Lay the tissue flat on the work board and proceed as in the diagrams.  At (1) paint the mandrel with the cement.  (2) roll back to pick up the tissue.  (3) roll forward to start the first layer - - use of the brush will help eliminate any slack - - none allowed here.  Continue rolling and adding cement for several turns.  Cut off the spare tissue and twirl between your fingers to lay the end flat and tighten the coils.  (4) immediately pull the tube off the mandrel with your finger nails and let it drop on the work board.  You will ruin a few until you find it is easy.  The trick is getting step (3) OK.  Make several spares and when dry store them on snug fitting rounded balsa sticks.  With an 1/8 drill and tissue about 1 inch wide make the tail mount tube, plus a spare or two.

Make Motor Stick and Tail Boom:  Cut the stick and boom per your plan with a bias towards being slightly deeper than shown.  When sanding leave the motor stick essentially rectangular cross section.  The tail boom can be rounded.  Just ahead of the tail position sand the boom to a hair more than 1/8 inch diameter for an inch or so.  Later this will be the place for the tail mount tube.  Get the wing mount tubes and slice them to length with a sharp razor while still on the storage sticks.  Slide them off the sticks and onto the wing mount jig.  Lay this whole thing in the correct position on the motor stick side.  Shim under the stick or jig so that the tubes sit nice and flat on the side (usually left) of the stick.  Glue in place with CA.  Remove the jig.

Now for the prop shaft and rear motor hooks together with the shaft dual bearing.  Every one has their favorite hook shape and rubber sleeves, O-rings, etc.  My hooks look like a Z-shape when viewed from the rubber band side.  When wound, the motor tends to center itself on this type hook.  The shaft bearing has to do two things.  First, it must hold the thrust line you want and second, it must let you remove the prop complete with shaft for storage.  Ray Harian does a good bearing, but I make my own from music wire.  The general principle of all dual bearings is similar.  The front bearing is a plain hole through which you thread the prop shaft hook.  The rear bearing is a devious shape which allows the gook to be 'screwed' through or snapped in place and then grips the shaft when in the running position.  Here are some sketches (enlarged) of my hooks and bearings:

I make my bearing loop and spiral by clamping two pieces of wire in a vice and then winding one around the other.  Takes a lot of practice to get it just right.  The front face is then stoned to remove any sharp projections.  The front bearing and rear hook are both attached by binding a few turns of a strip of jap tissue and thinned Ambroid.  A short piece of wire the same diameter as the prop shaft will help you align the bearing.  You will need about 2 degrees of left side thrust.  Remember to allow for any slop which will straighten out with a wound motor.

Now for the tail boom.  Fasten it down on the building board with pins and blocks.  Set the horizontal stabilizer in place and cement it.  Likewise for the vertical.  If you have a droop down tail, block it up to

clear.  Remember the approximate 1/8 inch diameter bit sanded ahead of the tail?  Cut through it about one third back from its front end.  Get the paper tail tube and cut it to length (approximate 3/4 in.)  Sand the front part of the cut to make it a tight fit on the tube.  Insert about 1/4 inch and glue it..  Sand the tail half of the cut to be a tight but removable fit.  This will tend to loosen in time but a thin coat of CA will take care of it.  If you fly in a site where the plane can hit obstacles (and who doesn't), put a small smear of Ambroid to secure the plug in part.  Have a small bottle of acetone with you to loosen it later.  If the boom is separate from the motor stick, they can now be joined.

Wing Mount Assembly:  Sand the lower 1/2 inch or so of the wing pylon sticks for a stiff fit in the motor stick tubes.  Insert them kin the tubes flush with the bottom.  Pin the motor stick to the work board with the pylon sticks vertical.  Support the wing using the props you used earlier so that the wing sits at the correct height between the pylon sticks.  If all is well the sticks should rest lightly against the LE and TE.  At this time you should include any wing twist called for, usually some left wing wash in (TE down).  I use less than 1/8 inch.

When everything is in the correct position glue the pylon/wing joints with CA.  I stopped using Ambroid for these joints after a small amount of creep occurred in storage which ruined the trim.  If the plan calls for any diagonal braces, these can be added now.  Remove the wing assembly and weigh it.  Likewise the motor stick + boom and tail assemblies.

Before making the prop and flying hints... let's have some fun.  Add some ballast to the nose to make the model balance at about 65% of the wing chord.  Set the wing at a slight positive incidence relative to the tail.  Set the right tail tip about 1/4 to 1/2 inch down.  Test glide in your best clear space indoor (air off).  Adjust wing setting until almost stalling.  It should turn slowly left and amaze your friends by its lack of speed.  Maybe not.  It reminds me of a morning when I was giving an indoor flying demo to a bunch of about 80 sixth graders.  My Pennyplane was steadily climbing to the gymnasium roof accompanied by ooooo's and ahhhh's from all except one boy who asked "Sir, can you make it fly any faster?"

Propeller Basics:  Your plan will give you a good idea of the propeller construction.  It will have thin molded light sheet blades attached to a single stiff spar.

The Bare Blade:  This will usually be made from 5 to 6 lb. C grain balsa.  The grain may be shown straight or on the diagonal.  The blades must be cut from the sheet so as to give a good stiffness match.  Blades are usually sanded to taper in thickness typically from about 1/32 in. at the root to perhaps half that at the tip.  For sand this thin you must set the blade on a very flat surface (I use a 12 inch square tile) and the sandpaper must be glued to a very flat block such as a piece of 1/2 sheet balsa.  It is important to match the blades for thickness and weight.  The spring scale and a micrometer will help.

Molding the Blade Twist:

Theoretically the optimum blade twist is for helical pitch which requires a carved block former, but we will use a simpler and quite good method which involves setting the blade at an angle on a cylindrical surface.  This method also induces an airfoil section to the blade.  You need a smooth can, bottle or pipe of 4" diameter or as indicated on your plan.  If the item you find is not quite the right diameter then the angle must be changed.  The bigger the diameter the steeper the angle.  Mark this angle on the former twice 180 degrees apart together with blade outlines.  Mark the spar lines on the blades tip to tip.  Prepare about 12 strips to hold the blades in the former like this:
Get an Ace bandage (no, don't steal it from the first aid kit).  Set the oven to heat to about 200 to 230 degrees.  Boil water, pour into a pan and add about two table spoons of household ammonia for each cup of water.  Thrown in the blades.  Cover or otherwise keep hot for ten minutes.  The heat plus ammonia softens natures glues in the wood and will clear your sinuses.  Fasten the blades on the former using the prepared strips.  Bind the whole thing with the bandage and bake for an hour.  Remove from the oven and let it cool.  I usually let it sit overnight.  Uncover and carefully ease the blades off the former.  Cut a slot for the spar if the plan calls for it.

Propeller Assembly:  For the spar cut and sand a piece of medium hard 3/32 in. or 1/8 in. to the shape shown on the plan.  Make a tiny hole in the center and insert the prop shaft.  Bend and cement like this:

It is important that the notches for the shaft are aligned exactly vertical and that the center of the 45 degree support is close to the height 'H'.  Fasten the shaft/spar item in the notched part using a small band hooked on to the toothpick.  Use a pin to provide a stop.  You may need to reposition the 45 degree piece laterally to get the right height.  The span wise position 'R' sets the pitch.  R=0.159xPitch (For 20 in. pitch R=3.2 in.).  When it looks pretty good apply CA at the ends and at several points along the spar.  Repeat for the other blade.  Remove and admire your superb handiwork.  Add a small nylon washer and weigh it.

Balancing:  Clean off any ballast from the front of your motor stick and insert the propeller.  Make certain it revolves freely.  If one blade appears much heaver than the other do some careful sanding.  Don't worry too much about static balance.  Go fly it.  If it wobbles it means that the blades are set at or flaring to unequal angles.  Check and tweak as necessary.  Suffice to say that usually the wobble is affected more by unequal blade angles than by static balance.

Rubber Band Flying:  Weight the complete model without rubber.  It must be at least 3.1 grams.  For power TAN 2 is the best.  However, it only comes in widths suitable for outdoor flying, 1/4 in. etc.  If you model is close to the nominal 3.1 grams, you will need some cut to .075, .080 and .085 in. for starters.  If your model is heavier, the sizes will have to be bigger.  The way to get rubber of various odd sizes is to call Indoor Model Supply or get someone who has a stripper to cut it from your 1/4 in. strip.  Please DO NOT ask a friend to do this on a contest day.  Whatever you choose, make a small loop, say 4 in., lube it (I use STP Son of a Gun protectant).  Break it in, then stretch wind it until it breaks.  Calculate the breaking turns/inch.  Make an 18 inch loop of .080 and wind it to about 70% of breaking and then back down to 50%.  With these turns trim the model close to the stall with wing post settings and the desired left turn with stabilizer tilt right side down.  If it climbs at this 50% (backed off) turns, the motor is probably too thick or too short.  Similarly if it sinks, the motor is too thin or long.  Either way, just wind up some more until you get a decent flight.  Make notes for each flight... trim settings, motor size, weight and flight time.  Count the number of turns left at the end of each flight and calculate prop revs...  (Turns wound - turns left) x 60 / flight time secs. = RPM.

Set a target flight duration for your site (be realistic).  Calculate a motor length assuming you use 90% of breaking turns...  Length (inches) = RPM x Duration Minutes / 90.9 x break turns per inch)

Bear in mind that a short motor will not run long enough, but an extra long one will be too heavy.  You need to do a lot of flying to get the motor just right for one flying site.